Jo'burg: Part One

Johannesburg Part One


I decided to title this post “Part One,” as there are very clearly two distinct Johannesburgs – one that we saw this time ‘round, the other we’ll see when we return to Jo’burg the end of October. For “Part One” we stayed in Melville, a mainly white northern suburb I would personally describe as charming meets funky…for “Part Two” we’ll be in Soweto, short for south-west township, where blacks were forced to move to in 1904, and has now become "one of the most vibrant areas in Johannesburg" says our Lonely Planet.

For the past four nights we were lodged in a very charming Bed & Breakfast called Melville’s Arch on Saint Swithins Avenue, just a hope skip and a jump away from 7th Street, where one can find old bookstores, a trendy cyber café, and loads of funky bars and restaurants that host live jazz musicians. Luckily, we were close, as walking in Jo’burg is more of a faux pas than walking in LA. Yes, our neighborhood was charming but raise your eyeline just a couple inches upward (maybe a bit more for me...) and you’ll find a horizon of barbed wire, electric fences and sharp rods pointing to the sky. Clearly, business is booming for security companies! While all that is supposed to be a sign of safety, it also serves as a constant reminder that once you exit you’re quadruple pad-locked, electric fenced estate, danger awaits. Add that to the ten warnings we got a day about walking around, getting mugged, carrying anything valuable, well actually carrying anything at all….and you can imagine our level of nervousness.

I am well aware that every city, every country, every person for that matter, has their downsides, cause that’s life. Though...I must point out that even though we were warned here and there about this and that, we never had any trouble – even while walking three hours to the botanical gardens along the highway, no trouble.  You could tell people were on their guard, but still they often responded to our touristy, cheery hello's as we walked around.

Which brings me to what we enjoyed about our stay in Jo’burg… For me, I would vote for the Jazz in the Park festival in Zoo Lake. We were lucky because it only happens once a year and we had just arrived in Jo’burg the night before. It was a fun in the sun day type of day - with amazing music, a lively crowd of people (with way better dance moves than us), and the smell of fried chicken and sausage circling the perimeter. Yum! The stage was set up just next to a small lake that harbored tiny, colorful row boats, where there was also a great restaurant called Moyo that we tried later that night with Sarah's dad.

Another highlight was spending the day with Natalie, who kindly brought us into the city center, where we got to meet a real Jo’burg celebrity! His name is TK – the head stylist of the Smarties, a group of stylists from Soweto that follow no fashion rules but their own. Apparently, they came to be known as the fashion rebels after showing up at fashion week last year with a sign that said “Fuck Fashion.” Of course, their message came straight from the heart. As TK explained, having good style doesn’t necessarily come from designer labels. It’s about self-expression, individualism, and attitude – three characteristics he himself personified in every way. When we met him, he was wearing a bright, lime green button down shirt, black slacks, white shoes, and gold square-shaped shades. We were clearly in the presence of a celebrity.

It was definitely refreshing and inspiring to hear what the Smarties are all about, especially for guys. He reminded us of how often styles change for women, whereas men can often go a decade without getting to mix things up. Clearly his lime green shirt and cool-cat personality begged to differ - “colorful on the outside, black on the inside,” as their name celebrates.

I could go on and on about our time in Jo’burg but I know this post is already long as it is. So to end, here’s a quick recap of what I learned while in the Jo’burg suburbs: The history of Tai Chi from our 65 year old B&B neighbor. People say 100% to say “sure thing,” and “robots” to say traffic lights. Usually people walk down the middle of the road instead of the sidewalk because of the (very scary) guard dogs everyone owns. You drive everywhere! South African white wine is very strong.

Thank you to Anthony and Natalie for taking us around in Jo'burg! It was great seeing you both! Hopefully we'll get to party it up in Soweto when we're back in October! Miss you Sarah! :)

Emily xx

4 Sept. Vol BA 6983 Port Louis – Johannesburg

Apres 2 jours très relaxant sur l’Ile Maurice, notre périple commence véritablement a JO ‘Burg et nous allons decouvrir de plein fouet cette ville que beaucoup disent dangereuse mais  c’est un peu ce qui la rend excitante aussi.

Notre séjour sur l’Ile Maurice a été très court mais j’ai eu le temps de m’essayer au ski nautique, un sport qui ne m’a pas trop réussi. J’ai avale beaucoup d’eau par le nez et la bouche simultanément. Je déconseille.

En revanche nous avons bien profite des restaurants et bars, de la piscine et de la plage. C’est un endroit simplement magique, la végétation et les oiseaux sont envahissants mais superbes. Mais tout ce luxe me met un peu mal à l’aise. Sur la route pour l’aéroport nous avons eu un bref aperçu du niveau de vie moyen. 

Trop de bus pour un sejour de 2 jours Notre taxi avait la cinquantaine et nous avons pu discute un peu avec lui de la culture locale et de son histoire personnelle. Son nom est Jaysing et il est ne sur l’ile puis a vécu dans le sud de l’Afrique pendant 20 ans avec sa femme qui était originaire du Botswana.

Ils ont du quitter l’ile car ses parents n’ont pas acceptes son mariage avec une femme noire. Sa femme est morte en 2002 et il est revenu sur l’ile car il nous admis que toute sa vie était ici et qu’il ne s’était jamais vraiment intégré dans son pays d’adoption.

Ses enfants ont tous quittes l’ile dans l’espoir de vies meilleures en Europe et en Afrique du Sud il nous a avoue a demi mots qu’il avait peu d'illusion a ce sujet... J’ai senti de la tristesse derrière la pudeur de notre guide. De la solitude aussi.

Je lui demande s’il leur a rendu visite, la bas en Europe ? Non. Trop cher. Je me suis senti un peu bête avec mon tour du monde et mes questions. Mais il avait trouve une forme de bonheur je crois. « Je suis content maintenant, j’ai un bon travail, je discute avec les gens. J’ai de la chance. » il finit par une poignée de main et un grand sourire et nous donne sa carte. Il repart dans la file interminable de taxis qui attendent devant l’aéroport de Port Louis. Nous nous envolons vers l’Afrique du Sud.

Quote of the Day

"You don't eat alone, you share your food with others." Our taxi driver in Mauritius on why he can only drive us to and from the airport....other drivers need business too!

A Quick Update from a Cybercafe in Jo'burg

So Will and I have made it to South Africa! We're staying in a very charming/funky neighborhood in Melville, though I have to say, I've never seen so many electric fences in my life....(don't worry parents, to get into our room there are four keys required). There is a jazz festival happening in Rose Bank this afternoon so we're heading over there in a bit to get our jam on, and meeting up with my dear friend Sarah's parents for dinner! Lots to see and do! Will report back soon....  Big hugs and kisses to everyone!  Emily x

WANTED: MUSIC FOR SERIES!!

Hello again!

I just wanted to let all the inner-Bob Dylans and Celine Dions out there know that Will and I are looking for lots of original music for our series! If you would be willing to share a YOU-creation with us, we can't promise any financial rewards, but we will give you credit in the episode.  And who knows, maybe it will pay off in the end... :) If this is something you might be interested in, you can email us at fastenyourdreambelt@gmail.com! All genres welcome! 

xx Emily and Will