Happy Holidays!

The day before Christmas….Will and I spent our last day in Luang Prabang, a charming city in northern Laos. Side note: The same city that Elizabeth Gilbert, the author of Eat. Pray. Love. stayed with “Phillipe” for several months while writing her next book, Commitment.  We had planned a full day of excitement and activities on December 24^th…..get up early, bike to the waterfall nearby, stroll around the markets, make a Xmas video for our families, etc.  Unfortunately, things didn’t go quite as we planned.  The night before our big day, Will and I had a major insomnia attack, waking up restless at 3am for no rhyme or reason. We resorted to watching hours of BBC, including a one hour Julian Assange interview, hoping we’d eventually pass out, but alas it never happened.  On the up side, I was able to log 5 hours of interviews that night, bringing us up to speed with a total now of 24 hours of footage logged.  Oooff, makes my fingers tired just thinking about it!

Needless to say, the next day was spent napping and relaxing.  We ate an early dinner of chicken tikka masala at an Indian restaurant nearby, and came back to our hotel just in time to watch CNN Heroes with a bottle of wine and a pack of Oreos (…to honor our French and American-ness).  Apparently it was aired earlier this year, so perhaps some of you have already seen it – we were lucky to catch it the second time around.  If you’ve never heard of it (as we hadn’t), it’s an award show on CNN which acknowledges the extra-ordinary initiatives of ordinary people, hosted by Anderson Cooper – our favorite – and presented by a number of celebrities, including Kid Rock, Demi Moore and Halle Berry.  Their stories and loving dedication were truly an inspiration, often bringing us to tears.  It was wonderful to see one standing-ovation after the next as the nominees for the $100,000 prize selflessly introduced their cause, proving that anyone can make a big difference.  

After the show, I went on their website to learn more and it turns out that anyone can submit a nominee for next year’s awards. So, if you know someone that should be recognized for their outstanding work, anywhere in the world, here’s your chance!

http://www.cnn.com/SPECIALS/cnn.heroes/index.html

Christmas Day…..Will and I caught an early flight from Luang Prabang to Bangkok, where I am now currently writing this blog! We were lucky enough to cross paths with Will’s sister, Helen, and her boyfriend Fabian, who have also been exploring southeast Asia.  We spent the day walking through the lively alleyways of Bangkok, filled with tourists in santa hats, pad thai stalls, and massage parlors.  Speaking of massages…that was our next stop! 30 minute head and shoulder massage for only $3 – not too shabby!  With the warm, humid air and ice cravings, it felt more like summer break than winter holiday, but with family in town and a few phone calls back home, we were reminded of that Christmas spirit!!

Thank you to all our friends and family for your support and love! We miss you! Happy Holidays!!

Get a read on our travels

Hi everyone,

We will be spending Xmas in Bangkok watching a muay-thai boxing match and getting a well deserved massage after the more than 60 hours spent on a bus during the past month (nope not complaining). If you feel like you haven’t had time to scout out what to read between those long days at work, after work cocktail parties and early morning jogging sessions (or late sleep-ins…) here are a few suggestions from two people who have a lot to of time to turn pages.

Chasing the Flame – Samantha Powers

This epic biography reads like a novel. It is for those who wish they paid more attention in history class or want a crash course on modern history. Through the life of Sergio Vieira de Mello, a Brazilian born, Sorbonne educated, UN diplomat, Samantha Powers take you through all the major conflict zones since the Vietnam War. From the personal accounts on this man’s qualities and faults, to his work in East Timor to Iraq, you’ll get a better understanding of the UN’s structure and internal politics.  While reading this book, we got a sense of the inherent contradiction of the organization’s founding principles: A mission statement to stay neutral while being composed of national representatives.  If the UN fails to do good, maybe we have to look to our own leaders for answers ...

This is a story of a man that gave his life in the defense of the principles he believed in. You can decide if you think it was worth it…

Race of a lifetime (Game Change) – John Heilemann & Mark Halperin

Another book that will keep you awake late through the night. Through hundreds of interviews with both parties’ candidates, the authors manage to recreate the excitement and intensity of the election for the 44^th president of the United States of America.

Full of behind the scene quotes from campaign staff, journalists and the candidates themselves this book gives a broad – and relatively fair – account of the run for the top job. Through the scandals and the debates it also gives a sense of the degree to which the American media can weigh on the beat of a campaign and its outcome…

A people’s history of the Vietnam War – Jonathan Neale

A fresh insight on the Vietnam War but much more than this. From the French colony era legacy to the civil rights movements of the 60’s and 70’s in the US this book puts what the Vietnamese call “the American War” into historical context with great depth.

Turn in turn through class, racial and political lenses the author delivers a powerful argument and sheds a new light on one of the events that greatly shaped US foreign policy until 9/11.

The World is Flat – Thomas Friedmann

Okay this is an intense read. But if you want an update on the new era’s technologies, business models and employability criteria this is the place to start. Over 600 (I read the 3.0 version…) pages on how the interconnected world we live in is changing the rules of engagement in business, politics as well as its impact on the local cultures that compose it. Sometimes a little detailed in his accounts on the geeky stuff, Friedmann illustrates his points very skillfully and explains why the western world in general and the US in particular are being overtaken by our new rivals.   He exits opening up on a very actual topic: the moralization of the forces that drive change in our economies.

The Bang Bang club – Greg Marinovich and Joao Silva

The subtitle on the cover reads: Snapshots from a Hidden War, and that’s precisely what the Hostel War in South African townships was during the early 90s.  Told from the perspective of war photographer and Pulitzer Prize winner, Greg Marinovich, the years after Mandela’s release from prison are described with heart, hope and torment.  I’d argue that the “hidden war” also refers to the personal conflict of those covering such gruesome events – the recurring question being: When do you stop being an observer and become a participant? 

And once you have read them or if you already have we always love to have your comments!

Have a great Christmas everyone

Just Say No!

No, I'm not talking about that fifth Christmas cookie...but something much easier to say no to - the use of cluster bombs! Over the past week, Will and I met up with Clear Path Int. and Handicap Int. in Vietnam and Lao to interview UXO victims and mine ban advocates. I know, this isn't a subject we often here about back at home - luckily, we aren't faced with the constant reminder of limbless people in the street, nor do UXO accidents regularly appear in news headlines...but they should. Long after war has ended, UXOs continue to maim, harm, and kill people, innocent people, all over the world. 

This past week, we listened to the stories of a number of people not much younger than us who had lost limbs and loved ones at the hands of a war-time weapon used nearly 30 years ago. I couldn't help but look at them and imagine my own siblings, or Will's siblings, in their place.  How lucky we are not to live in countries where this is a daily threat... Though, while I'm thankful that Americans don't have to worry about finding a cluster bomb in their backyard or accidentally stepping on a landmine, I'm furious that my country is responsible for such incidents abroad.  Especially, when we know that over 60% of casualties are civilians...people like you and me. So why are we still using them??

We learned a lot about the international effort to ban landmines and cluster munitions, movements that started at the grassroots level and have since blossomed into a beautiful step forward for humanity. Yes we can! Well, actually others seem to be able to, but not us.  Even though 108 Countries have signed, and 49 have ratified the cluster munitions ban that was launched this August, the US, along with China and Russia, has yet to show their support.

The last interview we did in Laos was with a boy about 20 years old who had lost both his forearms and his eyesight.  He kept saying that he couldn't believe this had happened to him. Since the accident, his friends had become distant and his ability to help support his family has basically diminished...When we asked our usual question, what is your dream? He said that he used to dream of being a leader, but since the accident, he no longer knows how.  These are the types of people, caring and ambitious, that are being affected by these weapons. It's time to put an end to that.

In his honor, and the thousands of other UXO victims around the world, I urge everyone to get behind the campaign to stop the US from manufacturing, stockpiling, and using cluster munitions. It is an unnecessary weapon that can't discriminate between civilian and military targets, and thus continues to harm newborns to ninety year olds long after a war has ended. I wish my government would step up and be an example to other countries that have yet to join the convention, but we can't wait around for them to change - it’s up to us to persuade them!!

An interesting insight on the Obama administration's position on landmines is this article on The Guardian online: http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/cifamerica/2009/nov/26/obama-landmine-ban-treaty

The initiative by 68 american senators to incent the Obama administration to sign the Min Ban treaty in May 2010 is analysed here: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wpdyn/content/article/2010/05/07/AR2010050705089.html

More ressources : http://debatepedia.idebate.org/en/index.php/Debate:_Mine_Ban_Treaty_(Ottawa_Treaty)

What's up Doc?

Yesss, here is a list of our favorite documentaries! We recommend everyone reading this to see them!

1. No End In Sight
First up is a documentary that came out in 2007 but whose content is still extremely relevant today.  It reveals, in-detail, how the US dealt with post-Saddam Iraq, and the head-shaking, blood-boiling number of mistakes made during the first few years of US occupation of their country. Interviews with high ranking officials recount the decisions made by the Bush administration after the fall of Baghdad, decisions which allowed looting to destroy cultural heritage sites, left thousands of Iraqi soldiers without jobs and thus without means to support their families, and disregarded military advisors to do otherwise.  This documentary is a reminder that when you take away a person's dignity and a country's pride - terrorism and religious extremism often follow suite.



2. By the people: The election of Barack Obama
The second recommendation is By The People: The Election of Barack Obama. This well crafted documentary gives youan insight in the Obama campaign like never before. It is about Obama on, and off stage. Whether you agree with number 44's policies or not you will come out of this viewing experience with a better understanding of who Barack Hussein Obama really is. We also got a better understanding of what a grassroots movement can achieve in today's world. And if you like this you will love the book "Race of a lifetime" with gives more insight on the 2008 presidential campaigns.

Same, Same, But Different - Lessons from Cambodia

As we travel towards the Vietnamese border, I pull aside the green ruffled curtains on our bus only to find even more shades of green through my own reflection – palm trees, rice fields, elephant grass, cactus, various trees, and of course the road signs indicating that our time in Cambodia is quickly coming to an end.  Four hours to go and we’ll be in Ho Chi Minh City.  

As for now, we bumpily drive by pagodas, stilted houses, and farmers tending the land.  Every so often, our bus slows down long enough to wave back at kids or vendors selling waffles, dried fish, and creatively sliced mangos and pineapple.  Their faces strong and attractive – young girls with long shiny black hair and the boys with their well-coiffed 50’s style do’s.  Reminiscing about our two weeks spent in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, two weeks full of noodles and tuktuk rides and magical moments - I am sad to leave.

 I embarrassingly admit that before coming to Cambodia, I knew very little about its history.  In school, our lessons understandably focused more on Vietnam and the devastating war my country ignited.  As for Cambodia, I never learned who Pol Pot was, or what happened at the killing fields, or that a genocide (killing off 2 million i.e 20% of the population) had occurred here.  I also didn’t realize how recent it all was.  Visiting the S-21 prison for political prisoners in Phnom Penh, the killing fields, or Angkor Wat, you get the sensation that this all happened just yesterday.  Old blood stains and used bed frames are still in the prison cells.  Pieces of clothing from the buried continue to float to the surface of the hundreds of pits the Khmer Rouge dug for its victims.  Heads are smashed off the stone-carved 8-headed snakes and lions that protect the temples of Angkor Wat.  Although a disturbing (and important) reminder of the tragedies that occurred here, the rawness of Cambodia is one of the things I found most intriguing. 

To learn more about the country’s history, we bought “First, They Killed My Father.”  Anyone who is looking for a book to read – this is it! It is a truly remarkable, heartbreaking account of Loung Ung’s life after her family was evacuated from Phnom Penh in 1970.  What seems like a fictional horror novel – filled with pages too horrifying to imagine actually occurring – is, in fact, a true story that millions of Cambodians were forced to live through. Most of the book takes place when Loung is only a small child... 5 to 8 years old.  Meaning, at the age when I was still watching Care Bears and selling lemonade on my street, she had already survived years of starvation, training as a child soldier, and the devastation of losing her parents and several siblings.  

As I read this book on our six hour bus ride to Siem Reap, a Cambodian girl, around the age of five, would occasionally walk up and down the aisle with her Dad.  As I looked at her, with her chubby, rosy cheeks and innocent smile, it was hard to imagine how something so precious – a childhood – could have been taken away over night.  Cambodia, like many of the other countries we’ve visited thus far, has been a reminder of how lucky I am, how lucky I’ve been.   It’s history, a lesson in both the cruelty and strength that human beings are capable of.  For the past two weeks, we’ve been surrounded by many Cambodians who have lived through a civil war, the Khmer Rouge regime, what could only be described as hell on earth - yet still, somehow, are carrying on.  I wonder if I could ever be so strong.

Like the temples of Angkor, semi-destroyed by the Khmer Rouge but still as magical and beautiful as ever, Cambodia and its people stand strong despite their horrific recent history.   As I cross the Cambodian-Vietnamese border, I will take with me the lessons learned in this beautiful country, and await my return to be enchanted once again.  

That's the Way we Roll...

If you have a few days to spend in Siem Reap to visit the Angkor temples, and are conscious about your carbon footprint after those planes, taxis, buses and tuk-tuks you took to get down there, we have a proposition that might get your wheels turning… I hope you’re pumped up!  White Bicycles have been getting visitors from A to B around Siem Reap since 2006, when the NGO was first set up by Ken Oishi, who you’ll find at the Soria Moria hotel.   The idea is simple: rent a bike for only $2 a day, and pedal towards a better future for Cambodians living in a nearby rural village.  How? 75% of the proceeds go directly towards education and water projects, the remaining 25% used for maintenance and up keep of the bikes.  Sound too good to be true?  It isn’t!

 We realize as a traveler in Cambodia, you are often confronted with projects such as these – never quite sure which one to believe or support.  That’s why we asked Ken to show us the projects in Sra Brae village to see for ourselves.  About an hour’s drive out of Siem Reap, you feel as if you’re in another world… rural life is serene, lush, and peaceful.  Though, while picture perfect views are easy to find here, well-equipped schools and clean water are harder to come by.  That’s why White Bicycles has made such an impact.  They have sponsored student’s education, supported schools to provide them with proper facilities, and distributed water filters to families in the area.  For a westerner, the idea of not having access to education or water may seem as foreign as we felt standing there in what was once a Khmer Rouge controlled area.  But this is a very real problem for many in Cambodia.

Imagine for a second, what that would be like…

After seeing first-hand all the good that White Bicycles has accomplished in Sra Brae village, the lives it has changed, Will and I eagerly rented out White Bicycles the following day.  We biked all around the outskirts of Siem Reap, pedaling past rice fields, stilted houses, and villagers – who would giggle at their English as they shouted out a big, smiling “Hello!”  It was a great way to spend the morning – getting in some exercise and seeing a different part of the Siem Reap Province.  It felt good to know that not only did we get a whole day of fun for just $2, but that we had contributed - in a small way - to a much greater cause. 

Rent a White Bicycle at one of their 14 locations in Siem Reap, including the Golden Banana and Soria Moria Hotels! For more information, visit their website at http://www.thewhitebicycles.org/index.htm. 

Traveling Update!

Even though the last blog post was about Soweto in South Africa, in real time - we just arrived in Cambodia a few days ago!  For two weeks, we've been ever-so-kindly hosted by the famous French chef/owner of La Boulangerie in Shanghai, Laurent Meffre, and his Russian bracelet-modeling girlfriend, Taisse.
We could not thank them enough for their hospitality and delicious company!  But French pastries and beautiful weather was only the "cerise sur le gateau" for us as Shanghai is truly a fascinating east meets west city that will that your breath away!

From the skyscrapers of Pudong (including one that looks like a bottle opener that the japanese were not allowed to put their flag up on because it is the tallest in Shanghai) to the "platanes" lined street of the french concession through the bustling streets of the Yunan Bazaar and Gardens - you will never be bored in Shanghai!

Live from Siem Reap, Cambodia

Em & Will

Motho Ke Motho Ka Batho

For our last two nights in South Africa, we stayed in Soweto (a name that comes from the fact that it’s the South West Township from Jo’burg).  Although we had been skeptical about staying there at the beginning (opting instead for the funky yet isolated area of Melville in Johannesburg), after two months of being in Africa with no bad track record – no muggings, no late night encounters, nothing! - we decided that there was nothing stopping us… Who were we to judge without trying it first, right?   So after crossing the border from Botswana, we booked a room at Soweto Backpackers in Orlando West.

 After only about an hour drive from Jo’burg, you enter Soweto, and yes, you’ll know when you’re there! A bustling energy, full of excitement and warmth, immediately surrounds you.  Unlike the suburbs of Johannesburg, where people seem to remain either inside their houses or in their car (for safety reasons or a fear of their black compatriots), here, people are everywhere!   Kids wave enthusiastically from the sidewalks; Families and friends barbeque outside their houses – organized chaos in all its beauty.  While at the same time, exuberating an overwhelming sense of cool.

On our second day, we decided to take one of the hostel’s unique, soon-to-be-famous bicycling tours around Soweto to see more of the city. Our tour guide, who lived nearby, greeted us with helmets and a huge smile – which in a way is a symbol of black South Africans strength. Despite their history of disrespect and humiliation from whites, oddly enough, there is no hostility, no resentment.  And we saw this everywhere.  Nelson Mandela said “Before changing the society, you have to first change yourself,” and it seems that this message is truly taken to heart in the black community.  Getting us back is not about making us uncomfortable or scared, but showing us how wrong we were to judge them by their color. 

 While Will ran back to our room to get the camera, I chatted with the guide, asking him how he started giving tours.  He told me that he used to work as a volunteer for one of the community projects supported by our hostel.  During that time, he met an American couple that had come to help out, and after getting to know him, offered to support his training to become a guide.  You could tell from his manner that he was proud of his job and happy to be there, he had an opportunity to support himself and his family.  It’s easy to say that people in the townships don’t want to work – that they would rather just hang out and do nothing, because unfortunately that’s often what you see - but it’s completely untrue.   Their ability to step out of poverty has been crippled by years of racism and lack of opportunity.  This has nothing to do with their work ethic, but the unjust and economically-hindering treatment of blacks by the apartheid regime.  

As he told his story, giving credit to that couple who helped him out, I saw that he wasn’t ashamed or embarrassed for needing assistance, but grateful and proud.  Proud, perhaps, of the fact that we, the human race, are helping one another have a better life.  The African philosophy of Ubuntu is one that’s been mentioned by Nelson Mandela, Desmond Tutu, even Bill Clinton, to explain the importance of our interconnectedness as a people.  A SeTswana proverb – “Motho Ke Motho Ka Batho” – translates as “A person is a person through other persons,” the idea being that our behavior and decisions will affect the lives of others and vice versa, creating an invisible thread through which we are all linked.  Pull on that thread and you may not feel the difference, but you will inevitably shift the position of others who are also attached. 

This idea I find most comforting, and one that seems to be growing in pertinence every day.  Globalization, thanks to the internet and cheap travel, has shrunk our world into one ever-flowing exchange of ideas, products, and identities.  “I am because you are,” is no longer only relevant to a town or city, but actually to the whole world.  We are in this together.  This is why I urge whoever is visiting South Africa to visit Soweto.  To learn about its history, not in a museum, but hey, why not on a bicycle! Experience the friendliness of a people that endured more than I, a white Californian, could ever imagine - but still just keep on smiling.  During those two days, we both pulled on that invisible string, and felt a big tug back.


To learn more about Soweto Backpackers you can visit their website at: www.sowetobackpackers.com
Love to everyone!
Emily

In to Africa

I must say I looked at her with worried eyes when Emily first said we were going to spend 3 months in Africa. Africa seemed to me like a dangerous place to go: poverty, famine, ethnic wars, and despotic leaders were what I had in mind.

Now I have seen a little bit I wanted to share with you how feel. We have spent 2 months here and visited, South Africa, Swaziland, Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana. I have been amazed! Everywhere I went I said: “This isn’t Africa!” And that is exactly the problem: Cape Town, South Africa, Southern Africa are all part of Africa even though they seem a very safe and extremely beautiful (not to mention a little pricy: thank you FIFA!) place.

We have seen the majestuous peace and quiet  and amazing wildlife of Kruger Park, the pristine landscapes of Swaziland, the casinos and waterfront bars and beaches of Durban, or the amazing views of Cape Town from overlooking Table Moutain or from a boat at sunset.

In Namibia I experiecened the great medical infrastructure (nothing bad), the beautiful sand dunes on which we sand boarded, and the wonderful crafts markets.  In Zambia we learned how to play the drums. We also visited the Vic Falls and our white water rafting experience there left me literally and figuratively breathless. We recovered with a sunset (booze) cruise the next day!

In Botswana keep your eyes peeled in Chobe National Park for a few days of wildlife watching and go camping in the bush with lions, leopards and elephants taking over the camp at night! Go on to one of the Mokoro stations for a little sunset “cruise” in the tiny woodcarved boats!

Sure there are still problems here but so are there back home. Name me one country in the world that has no issues whatsoever. I hear you: Africa is worse. To which I want to proose 2 things:

1.         Democracy in Africa is a lot younger. When Europe achieved political democracy, the world was in a phase of great economic expansion. And those countries and their political system have been shaped gradually over centuries of economic and military wars. Economic poverty inevitably destabilizes democracy as attests the current rise of nationalist in Europe (France, Holland, Norway) and the US (Tea Party). Israel & Palestine were given their borders at roughly the same time (after WWII) and they haven’t figured that one out yet.
2.        You judge Africa is worse because like me you a. see the news and b. think like a European. I don’t pretend I know how to think like an African (my kingdom for a glass of champagne) but I guess I am beginning to understand how they do. Africa is different. Africa is happy to be that way. The only reason people leave Africa is to find a job! Their lifestyle is not for me but what I’m saying is we need to stop judging them by our standards. Maybe they don’t want to be like us…

After stability, the next step is development and one of the main sectors where Africa has a lot of potential (in my view) is tourism. The gap between the perceived Africa and the real Africa reminds me of an article I read about the African brand in the magazine New Africa. In a nutshell it said that Africa needed to start marketing itself a lot better to match what it has to offer. And I agree. Although it is probably not in their instincts to go market themselves (essentially to their former colonizers), that is exactly what African countries should do.

So this is me, doing my part.

“There wasn’t  one morning when I did not wake up happy in Africa” E. Hemingway

Will

Un drole d'animal

Une des choses que le guide nous as appris lors de nos nombreuses marches dans le bush c’est que les animaux isoles sont généralement les anciens qui ont été écartés par les jeunes males. Les hippos, buffles, éléphants et autres animaux m’ont rappelés la bonne vieille théorie de Darwin. Et le monde dans lequel nous vivons. Apres avoir protégés, nourris et éduqués leurs petits, ces derniers chassent leurs parents du clan. Leger Mauvais esprit, léger !

Les vieux males isoles sont les plus dangereux. Parce qu’ils sont seuls, vulnérables et probablement un peu amers.

Les lions écartent également les vieux males lorsque ceux-ci sont trop faibles pour se défendre. Mais pourquoi tant de haine me suis-je demander ? Le pouvoir ! Ils veulent dominer le groupe, devenir khalife a la place du khalife, le Roi Lion quoi… Et pendant ce temps la, c’est bobonne qui doit aller faire les courses. Une fois le repas sur la table, le lion se sert le premier et laisse les restes a ses petits, quitte a les laisser mourir de faim si la chasse n’est pas assez conséquente !

Je ne suis pas un expert en animaux de la savane ou un psychologue pour gros chat… C’est la nature, c’est beau, c’est cruel et c’est comme ca. Mais étant donne que nous sommes en train d’essayer de comprendre le monde qui nous entoure – et probablement influencer par une récente lecture sur les craquages successifs des Nations Unies depuis 30 ans (Chasing the Flame, Samantha Power) – je n’ai pu m’empêcher de faire un bon gros parallèle bien simpliste : le comportement de beaucoup d’êtres humains qui nous parait si souvent si choquant est simplement l’expression de notre instinct animal.

Devons nous donc lutter perpétuellement contre notre nature et utiliser ce qui semble nous différencier des lions : la conscience.  Ou bien accepter les bêtes bêtes que nous sommes instinctivement.

La plupart d’entre vous répondront : Petit a. utiliser sa conscience. Mais quand je regarde le monde tel que je le perçois et tel que les historiens mainstream l’ont défini je ne trouve que rarement cette conscience. A qui incombe (ou decombe) donc la responsabilité de la définition de cette conscience morale et l’adoption du comportement qui en découle.

L’enjeu parait trop grand pour la confier a l’individu qui a prouve a plusieurs reprises qu’il était trop susceptible d’être tente par ses instincts. La famille : oui mais non. La famille telle que le sociologue (la fameuse famille nucléaire) la définit traditionnellement est en train de disparaitre. De plus en plus, la famille et i.e. société sont composes, décomposes et recomposes d’individus. Le gouvernement. J’en vois qui rigole au fond. En théorie j’ai envie de dire oui. Sauf que le monde est un peu complique pour pouvoir se permettre de belles tirades à l’ONU contre les Etats Unis toutes les semaines.  Il y en a qui ont quand même eu les noix de le faire et c’est beau. Pragmatisme économique versus conscience morale ? Vous avez 3 heures !

Mais in fine les belles tirades ne changent rien. Ce sont les actions qui permettent de vraiment définir la conscience morale d’un ou un groupe d’individus. Et le fait est que, dans les pays africains (comme Mugabe au Zimbabwe), comme dans le monde (the US of A) les lions dominants vieillissent et d’autres vont bientôt prendre leur place.

Seul le leader peut aujourd’hui vraiment se permettre d’avoir une conscience morale et de vivre d’après ses principes. Barack Obama a déclaré le 22 Septembre dans son discours aux nations unies que « chaque fois qu’un enfant meurt d’une maladie curable cela choque notre conscience ». Il a tort. Cela ne choque plus grand monde. Ce qui me rend optimiste c’et que lui a l’air vraiment touche. Il a d’autres banquiers à fouetter. Il fait ce qu’il peut pour tenir la Barrack…mais bon il ne faut pas trop lui en demander non plus.

Je ne suis pas naïf : Nous sommes dans un monde conflictuel ou chacun la joue instinctivement perso, ironiquement c'est contre productif 99% des cas sur le long terme (cf. l’Histoire de l’Humanité). En revanche  le cynisme me semble être, comme souvent la solution de facilité. La réédition dans le combat que nous menons tous contre notre conscience.

« Where lies difficulty is opportunity ». A. Einstein

Happy Feet in Langa

    

    The term “happy feet” may trigger memories of your last relaxing foot massage or the animated movie about a dancing penguin, but for the kids living in Langa township – it’s something that gives them inspiration, guidance, purpose and much, much more.   In 2007, Siviwe – a name that means “our prayers have been answered” in Xhosa – started a gumboots dance group in his home community of Langa, the oldest township in Cape Town.  The dance, which was created by black mine workers during the apartheid era, is made up of a combination of clapping, stomping, and slapping the sides of rubber boots  – creating an intense beat…and when we first heard it, it was coming from 5 to 12 year olds!

We first met Siviwe at 8am when he came to pick us up at our hostel.  I had found his tour guide website back in San Diego and emailed to see if he could show us some of the community projects in Langa.  Little did I know, he had founded his own.  The tour began in a little garage across the street from a building of hostels – aka, three families per 10m2 room, where Siviwe had lived just last year.  The walls of the garage were covered in the names and handprints of the dancers, who – after putting on their boots – lined up to perform on the outdoor stage that read “Happy Feet” in colored paint.  Lights, camera, action! These kids were amazing!

What was even more amazing was getting to know Siviwe and his partner-in-crime, Natti, both 27, both passionate about the kids and the project, both inspiring people.  I use the term inspiring because they are just like you and me – ordinary people – yet they have created a project that is literally changing people’s lives.  Without proper guidance, kids in the area can easily become involved in drinking, drugs, crime, etc.  – the type of behavior that could quickly transform their difficult situation into one even worse.   Siviwe and Natti provide a place for kids to go when they‘re not in school, keeping them off “the street” and their feet happy. J    

After seeing the kids perform, we accompanied a group of volunteers from the UK to some of the poorest neighborhoods in Langa to distribute food parcels.  We entered each home to drop off the packages, always amazed at the number of people sharing the same space.  We asked Natti, “How does it work when three families are meant to share a room with three beds?”  He told us that the parents sleep in the bed, often with the youngest child, and the other children sleep on the floor….and if there still isn’t enough room, will sleep in the communal kitchen/living room.  Immediately, we realized that there was nothing for us to complain about.

As we walked around the hostels, we were consumed by the strength and openness of the people. The kids, not unlike the kids from Happy Feet, played outside in tattered shirts and ripped shoes (if they had shoes at all), always ready to give you an unexpected hug or smile.  The parents and grandparents, often found gathered in the common area of the hostels, were welcoming and peaceful.  They weren’t angry or complaining. Despite the decades of being denied any possibility of social progression, they talked with Will and me during our brief stop inside their homes without the slightest bit of hostility or blame. Siviwe explained that his generation now feels a duty to them.  To those that endured such repression and hardship.  Thus, the first thing he will do, naturally, when he has enough money, is move his parents into a better home.  

After saying goodbye to the British volunteers, Will, Nati and I took a minibus for 6 rand (less than $1) each to Guguletu, a neighboring township.  We had been invited to watch the soccer match. The Chiefs (hand signal = peace sign) were playing the Pirates (hand signal = crossed forearms), two rival soccer teams from Soweto.  But before helping our hosts cheer for their team’s (aka the Chiefs) victory, we made a stop at Mzolis, the best place to get braai in town!  After picking out our meat of choice, the chefs brought it back to a giant grilling room – which you can walk through on your way to a tented hang out area.  Apparently, the word had spread about Mzolis tasty meat (honestly, the best we’ve had!) and fun ambiance – as people of all colors, some of which had come from outside the neighborhood, were there, together.

After meeting up with Siviwe (who had just finished doing another tour), the four of us moved to a nearby house to get away from the beat-boxing, techno music, and loud crowds of people around Mzolis – and concentrate on the game.  As we watched and talked, we learned that people from all different countries have been trying to help the Happy Feet project.  Touched by their dedication (they both put in some of their own money for the project) and love for the kids, the British volunteers had come to donate food, a group of Germans are holding a fundraiser next week, and some Australians, who had gone on the Siviwe tour, created his current website.  Everyone saw a good thing and wanted to help make it work. Now, the French and the American enter the scene – hoping that we can share their story with others. 

 Little by little, with some help, Happy Feet may become the sustainable after-school program that Siviwe and Nati now dream about. What do they need to make this happen? Their own center to practice.  Transportation to and from the center and the kid’s houses.  Nutritious food to feed the kids on a daily basis (as of now they do their best, but still need help). 

If you are ever in Cape Town, I highly recommend that you contact Siviwe and Nati for a walking tour of Langa township, and learn more about the Happy Feet dance troupe.   Some companies offer a driving tour of the township, please don’t do this.  If your intention is to learn about the people and their culture, opt for a personal, interactive experience – looking people in the eye rather than looking down on them through your digital camera from a two story bus.   It is not only disrespectful, but embarrassing.  Besides, you can’t get any hugs from all the kids up there!

 Please visit Siviwe’s website to learn more about how you can get involved or arrange at tour, at: http://www.townshiptourscapetown.co.za/

Hope everyone is well! Big hugs from Cape Town!

Cape (Town) sur l'avenir

Apres un mois au cours duquel nous avons découvert l’Afrique du Sud (avec de petites escapades à l’Ile Maurice et au Swaziland) le passeport commence à se garnir. Apres 21h de bus nous sommes arrives a bon port dans la capitale de la jeune République de Namibie. Apres une journée passée à découvrir la ville et à prendre nos repères, un bel orage s’annonce.  Je vous écris de Windhoek (prononcez Vin-touk), installe à ma petite table en bois (avec cacahuètes et vin rouge – local, développement durable obligeJ) dans un « backpackers » (il faut croire que j’étais prédestiné) fort sympathique.

Mais revenons un peu en arrière. 

Nous avons passes 8 jours a Cape Town au cours desquels nous avons visites Langa, le township le plus ancien de la ville. La nous avons rencontres Siviwe et Nati, 2 Xhosa de 27 ans (prononcez sans le x avec a la place un petit son comme si vous appeliez votre chien – pas évident). En 2007, ils ont montes un projet - Happy Feet – avec leurs fonds perso. Ils organisent tous les jours après l’école un cours de danse pour les enfants du quartier afin qu’ils ne tombent pas dans les écueils « classiques » des townships, à savoir alcool, drogue et crime. C’est une danse qui provient des mines et qui a été invente par les mineurs noirs durant l’apartheid, ces derniers n’ayant accès a aucune forme de divertissement culturel.

Nous avons eu droit a une superbe démo et un petit cours de danse puis avons aides des bénévoles anglais à distribuer de la nourriture aux familles les plus pauvres, celles qui vivent dans les « hostels ». Ces grandes maisons sont tout un symbole ici. Elles ont été construites par les blancs pendant l’apartheid pour loger les travailleurs noirs. Ces derniers n’avaient pas le droit d’amener femme ou enfants et partagez un espace ouvert d’environ 100m2 pour 72 personnes. Pas d’eau courante ni d’électricité. La je me suis dis que finalement ma chambre de bonne parisienne n’était pas si mal. Aujourd’hui ces maisons ont été divises en chambre qui font toutes la même taille (9m2) et comptent chacune 3 lits, 3 familles. Les parents et le plus jeune enfant partagent le lit, les autres enfants dorment a même le sol. Notre guide, Siviwe a vécu ses 18 premières années dans un « hostel ».

L’après midi prenons un minibus pour un autre township, Guguletu. Ce jour la, l’équivalent Sud Africain de notre OL/ASSE avait lieu. Les 2 meilleures équipes du pays, les Kaiser Chiefs et les Orlando Pirates,  toutes 2 de Soweto, un township au sud est de Jo’burg s’affrontaient. Grosse ambiance.

Nous arrivons vers 13h, 2h avant le match et la file d’attente devant Mzolis fait le tour du pate de maison. Pas de problème, notre hôte connait les lieux et nous coupons devant tout le monde. La meilleure viande de la ville à en croire notre hôte, est ici. Nous commandons un énorme plat de viande (saucisses, chicken wings et cote de porc), un plat de Pap, la purée locale faite de mais et un mélange d’oignons, tomates et d’herbes fraiches pour 3 fois rien.

Je me suis rendu compte qu’il y avait vraiment 2 Cape Town, 2 Afrique du Sud au moment de payer. 100 Rands = 11 euros pour 4. Le salaire a Langa 1300 Rand par mois, le salaire minimum dans la province.  Une maison de base avec 2 chambres, cuisine et sdb coute environ 25000 Rand à construire (2600 euros). Nous avons paye 400 Rand/nuit  après négociation (originellement 560/nuit hehe) dans notre B&B à Green Point, qui est, pour vous donner une idée, l’équivalent du 17eme à Paris.

Mais revenons a nos moutons…nous achetons une tonne de viande (en vrai 2.5 kilos) et passons dans l’arrière salle en cuisine pour donner notre commande au chef. La, 5 cuistots m’effument et me chauffent (20 BBQ dans 30m2)... En vrai ca pique les yeux...violemment ! Etape suivante, le bar. Tente gigantesque sous laquelle nous trouvons toutes les nationalités et toutes les couleurs (de gens et de vins). Pour finir nous nous invitons chez une vieille dame qui vit en face du bar car nous voulions avoir le commentaire et le patron avait décide que ca allait être une après midi techno. Elle appelle la voisine pour régler l’antenne et c’est parti. Pour la première fois nous avons un vrai aperçu de l’hospitalité africaine, et l’impression d’être à la maison, avec des amis.

Le lendemain visite de Robben Island, l’ile au large de Cape Town ou les prisonniers politiques étaient enfermes pendant l’apartheid. Un ancien prisonnier nous a fait visiter le quartier de sécurité maximum ou étaient enfermes Mandela, Tambo, Sisulu et beaucoup d’autres. Chaque visite est un peu la même mais en même temps chaque guide a le droit d’improviser un peu, suivant son point de vue, son expérience personnel. Evidemment lorsqu’il raconte les humiliations subies des gardes de façon quotidienne l’ambiance est lourde. Mais ce qui m’as surpris c’est l’accent qu’il a mis sur l’implication des blancs au sein de l’ANC (African National Congress) ou en dehors et toutes les vies perdues littéralement ou en prison par des sud africains blanc pendant les 30 années de ségrégation raciale.

Je me suis demande si a sa place – il a passe 9 ans en prisons et a été torture –  j’aurais cette même force de pardonner et même d’admirer un blanc. J’écris mal, et je ne peux pas retranscrire la force avec laquelle ses mots m’ont percutes. Pas en raison de la violence de ce qu’il a vecu mais de sa capacité à pardonner et a continuer à vivre sans rancœur. Apres le tour, il nous a avoue qu’il y avait beaucoup de matins ou il se réveillait et ressentait une répulsion physique à venir sur l’ile faire son job.

Il nous a remercie d’avoir pris le temps de visiter l’ile avec un sourire et une poignée de main et nous sommes repartis sur notre bateau.

Une des choses les plus difficiles n’est pas de changer la société, mais de se changer soi-même. 

N. Mandela (traduit de l'anglais par W. Packer :-)

The South African Way to Get Rid of a Pesty Monkey:

Yes, monkeys are cute but here are a few tricks to "monkey around" when they're bothering you...

1.      1. Apparently, monkeys are terrified of snakes, so during a hike, best to carry a rubber snake with you.  The monkey will freeze, “relieve” himself, and run away.

2.        2. Lay out pumpkins in front of your house with a small-sized hole carved out.  The monkey will stick their hand inside the pumpkin to grab the seeds, but once in a fist, won’t be able to pull it out again.  Unable to understand that it must let go of the seeds before they can get their hand out, they will walk around with their hand stuck in the pumpkin. Aha!

3.       3. If all else fails, you can paint the monkey white.  It will run back to its group of monkeys, who will be frightened that a white monkey is running towards them, and start running as well.  The white monkey will think they are running away from something and continue following the others, when in fact, they are running away from him.  This will chase all the monkeys far, far away from your house!

Remember, when you feed a monkey it expects food from humans, stops providing for himself and becomes aggressive to humans…for food!

Monkey Love

Em and Will

High Expectations

After driving 3,700 kilometers through rain, fog, cloudy skies and the brightest blue, we arrived in Cape Town!   We were a bit sad saying goodbye to our little white Chevrolet after spending 5-9 hours a day inside it, though we have since been reconnecting with our legs, and ahhh it feels good…  Looking back on our journey, one can quickly see how diverse this country really is – everything from its people to its terrain, there is something here for everyone! 

To spare you a twenty page description of all our stops, I’ve kindly summed up our trip down the N2 freeway into one, fact-filled sentence:  (deep breath…and go!)  Starting in Jo’burg, we first drove east to White River (Kruger Park), then down through Swaziland to the home of Bunny Chow – Durban, into the “Wild Coast,” stopping in the adorable beach town of Chintsa before heading off to Jeffrey’s Bay to see the famous wave Supertubes , again further south to marvel at Swellendam’s  pristine landscapes, followed by a few glasses of wine in Stellenbosch, and finally – to Cape Town, our final destination in South Africa.  So, after roughly two weeks of driving, here we are – at the southernmost tip of Africa!

Seeing the city crest over the mountains as we drove from Stellenbosch was truly thrilling.  Sandwiched between the impressive Table Mountain and the ocean’s blue thumb print – it looked comfortably nestled into the land despite its painfully recent history.  Unlike our impressions from being in landlocked Jo’burg – Cape Town seemed to be a city as calm and cool as the salty ocean winds that blew through it.  Over the hours spent in the car, we had read all about its history, its people, and the “Lonely Planet” hotspots that freckled the city. We were ready!  Though as excited as we were, we both wondered if it would really live up to our high expectations…

Luckily, our first full day in Cape Town happened to be World Heritage Day!  So with our “My Cape Town” stickers on our chest and the sun in the sky, we walked around the city, stopping at all the must-see museums and landmarks (for free!).  We watched groups of singers and dancers perform in outside squares, explored the arts and crafts markets, and inhaled the smoky smell of braai at every corner.  It was truly a wonderful day, and only the beginning of a great week in Cape Town!

Walking everywhere, we realized that this vibrant, buzzing city with so much to do is actually still quite manageable.  After just a few days, we had a pretty good lay of the land and no longer had to sneak a peek at our map as we went from A to B.  Throughout the week, we did all the recommended touristy things - like climbing up Table Mountain (taking the “easy” Platteklip gorge trail) or visiting Robben Island – sometimes going into areas that we had read were “off limits” or “no go zones” for tourists.  But before you start worrying too much, consider the fact that most of those warnings were written BEFORE the World Cup.

As we’ve heard from many South Africans, the World Cup gave this country a time to shine, a time to reinvent its world image.  Despite the headlines we’ve all read, criticizing the government’s preparation for the games, at the end of the day, South Africa pulled it off. It cleaned itself up with the whole world watching, instilling a new (and much needed) sense of pride within its people, all its people.  Finally, South Africans felt that the world could move beyond simple associations with the apartheid or its poverty-stricken townships – the few things people knew about it – and get to know its rich and colorful personality.

On an economic level, the World Cup generated new jobs, new businesses, and helped develop new areas – one being Green Point, where we’re currently staying, located just across the street from the new stadium.  On a human level, the World Cup was able to connect all South Africans – black, colored, or white – as they cheered, together, for a common “goal”.  Perhaps reminding them that despite the many languages, ethnicities, and tribes that constitute South Africa, by coming together, they could create a nation for which everyone would cheer. So, while they lost the tournament, they won something even more important – a positive sense of national consciousness.

Back when Will and I were deciding where we should stay in Cape Town, this newfound unity had not yet been registered.  Old blog posts and websites warned potential visitors of just about everything – don’t walk here, don’t stay there - all for good reason I’m sure, but out-dated none the less.  Green Point – a young, clean, and upcoming neighborhood, dotted with trendy bars and restaurants (where our hotel is) – was among them as a place to avoid.  So, if you’re planning a trip to South Africa any time soon – take the criticisms with a grain of salt.  Things have changed here. 

OK before I become liable for a mugging, let me just say….As a general rule, one should be modest when visiting South Africa – aka don’t walk around with a camera around your neck, bling bling designer clothes, and a huge map, basically screaming “I AM A TOURIST, PLEASE ROB ME.”  At least try and blend in as a local. But above all, the most important thing to bring with you for protection is an open mind and friendly approach.  Don’t be scared of what’s different or new.  We heard how refreshing it was to have tourists during the World Cup – completely unaware of the normal dangers or behavior - just happy to be here, walking around the city, mixing with people of different colors.  Your openness will be appreciated and most of the time, respected. 

After reading and hearing all the warnings about being in Cape Town (as other cities in S.A.), I can understand one’s reluctance to explore the ins and outs of the city.  Though once you do, you’ll be pleasantly surprised!  Not only are there places to wear your Sunday’s best and boogie down at a trendy bar, but places to learn about the country’s diverse mix of cultures and traditions – and I’m not just talking about museums.   The townships, while poor in material goods and basic infrastructure, are rich in strong minds, life lessons, and persistent hopefulness.  In a flash, you realize how lucky you are to have your own bed, a clean toilet, and food on the table…but then you also realize that the townships are no longer just a place to remember your good fortunes.   They’re a cool place to hang out.

We experienced this first hand after spending a whole day in Langa township.  For many locals, the idea is not to get rich and move out, but to stick around and develop the community.  Through tour guides, restaurants, and hotels, townships all over the country are beginning to bring in new visitors…and more business.  Shacks are slowly turning into houses and people are becoming more open to mix and mingle with other colors.   Our day in Langa with the founders of the Happy Feet dance group was one of our best yet, and deserves its own blog post (so look out for that soon!)

All in all, we were NOT disappointed! Cape Town met all our expectations and more! The lesson learned:  Figure things out for yourself before judging a person or city, they just may exceed your expectations. 

Love to everyone! Emily

Facon Swazi

Apres quelques jours extrêmement éprouvants a Mbabane au Swaziland, ou nous avons attendu notre « Pass Media », indispensable pour filmer le travail d’ACF et World Vision. En effet, suite a un documentaire trop critique du souverain de ce petit royaume, le ministère de la communication est assez suspicieux des étrangers en quête d’images chocs !

Des notre arrivée dans le pays, nous avons été émerveillés par les paysages swazis grandioses et paisibles. A notre arrivée à Mbabane (prononcez Mabaner) j’ai été surpris.  Dans cette petite ville qui compte 2 rues principales et une dizaine de perpendiculaires, le seul bâtiment qui a l’air d’avoir moins de 10 ans est le KFC. Rien avoir avec la Vallée d’Ezulwini, la vallée des rois, a quelques kilomètres de la. Il est d’ailleurs interdit de photographier les résidences royales…

Mais cette fois-ci on est en Afrique, pour de bon, et ca a du bon ! Demandez votre chemin a un passant et il saut dans l’arrière de votre voiture et vous accompagne jusqu’au ministère, a l’autre bout de la ville (20 min a pied mais quand même !), finit les regards tendus de Jo’burg, place a l’hospitalité swazi !

Et si ces quelques jours passe à attendre a Mbabane auront été frustrants, ils n’ont pas été totalement vain car nous avons pu filmer les nutritionnistes d’ACF a leur retour en ville. Et j’ai appris à dire Bonjour en Siswati : Sawubona littéralement « je te vois » qui transmet bien la notion de temps en Afrique. J’ai aussi appris à apprécier cet art de vivre si différent du notre (heureusement j’ai le tempsJ). Nous avons réfléchi aux sourires et la gentillesse de tout ces gens. Une jeune femme nous a dis que ce qu’elle aimait le plus dans son pays c’était le fait quelle pouvait dormir sur ses 2 oreilles. Un garçon de 8 ans nous a explique qu’il était important de bien se nourrir pour pouvoir aider ses parents quand ils seraient vieux. Au Swaziland,  le taux d’infection du VIH estime à 33% et l’espérance de vie moyenne est de 37 ans.

Bon, niveau éducation, liberté de la presse, sante, économie et innovation il reste pas mal de chemin à parcourir. Mais dans d’autres domaines comme le courage, l’humour  ou l’attitude en générale, mon passage au Swaziland m’a forcé à remettre en question certains aspects de notre style de vie. Je me souviens qu’une américaine m’ai dit, en toute bonne foi, lorsque nous comparions nos vacances, qu’elle n’avait que 10 jours de vacances mais qu’elle avait aussi 10 « sick days » et…les week-ends !  Je ne sais pas si il y a une bonne et une mauvaise façon mais ce qui est sur c’est qu’il y a plusieurs façons. 

International Coastal Clean Up Day: September 18th!!

Beaches + Love (as our picture from Mauritius illustrates :) = Keeping our beaches clean!

Remember, 80% of the plastic pollution found in oceans come from land based sources, which means that we're not throwing our trash in the recycle bin, especially plastisc, where they belong! The North Pacific Gyre, also known as "plastic soup," is now estimated to be twice the size of the state of Texas! Once plastics are broken down, they're consumed by marine life, who either die or end up on our dinner plates! Now, who wants a salmon stuffed with plastic chemicals?

On the 18th, we'll be cleaning up the beaches in Durban! Find out the closest beach clean up to you by checking out the Clean Up the World website: http://www.cleanuptheworld.org/en/  So get out there! Get a tan! and get some trash! We'd love to hear who got involved, so post where you cleaned up on our blog! Beach cleaners unite! woohoo!!

Big hugs and kisses from Swaziland!
Em and Will

Let's make some waves!

A "Wild" Day

10th Sept, Kruger Park, South Africa


5:00 am Difficult wake up. South African wine is very good but treacherous…

5:30 am After a quick full English breakfast and coffee, we hit the road in the light of dawn. Now I have to tell you driving in Sth Africa is interesting. People cross the highway on foot and expect you to push into the emergency lane so that they can overtake you on a small road with cars coming from the opposite direction. Needless to say, I was glad it wasn’t too early and I was fully alert and awake…

A little bit before Numbi Gate (our point of entry into Kruger) one of the big double length buses that takes locals to work or school in the morning literally spun out of control right in front of us. Hitting a pothole, one of the back wheels flipped off the bus, not just the tire but the whole wheel! We managed to avoid the bus and I must say the guy driving it did a good job at staying out of the way…

6:30 am We arrive at the gate and make a pit stop, quickly fill in the forms, and get going.

The landscape itself is amazing, beautiful untouched nature, and after just 2 minutes in the Park we meet a White Rhino family walking along the road and stop to observe for a few minutes before they quietly make an exit into the high grass. The Mum kept an eye on us the whole time.

10:30 am After meeting a giraffe and a group of spotted hyenas sunbathing, we made our way down to the waterhole of Renosterpan and sat in the car while sipping our coffee. Out of nowhere comes a family of elephants who quickly made their way to the water hole and started gulping away. As soon as they finished, they moved closer to us and began grazing around the car. Now it’s hard to tell when an elephant is happy or not when you’re not an expert, but all of a sudden they got a little too close. The Mum again stopped in front of the car and stared at us for a long time. We put our windows up and smiled at her!

We also met Giraffes, Steenboks, Nyalas, a couple of Klipspringers, a troop of Baboons, a group of Warthogs - again the Mum who stared at us whilst standing between the car and her hogglets; she did not look nearly as friendly as Pumba – Zebras, Waterbucks, and lots of Impalas.

5:30 pm We exit the park without having met the king of the jungle but with so many cool encounters we couldn’t complain.

6:00 pm Night falls. The drive back becomes very…interesting as we are on unlit hilly roads with guys looking to overtake us at high speed, other drivers with the full lights on coming the other way and pedestrians crossing the road in the dark!

6:30 pm Home! As we enjoy a fresh South African night and Emily’s delicious homemade vegetable pizza, I realize that I learned a couple things today: Nature IS bigger than you (with all that this entails) and Mothers do not get enough credit as they are always there for their kids, watching their back (The White Rhino calf always walks in front of his mother).

So we want to thank our mums for looking out for us and although they do not have the muscle power of the Rhino Mother, they have always looked out for us and we probably haven’t been thankful enough for that!

Will