High Expectations

After driving 3,700 kilometers through rain, fog, cloudy skies and the brightest blue, we arrived in Cape Town!   We were a bit sad saying goodbye to our little white Chevrolet after spending 5-9 hours a day inside it, though we have since been reconnecting with our legs, and ahhh it feels good…  Looking back on our journey, one can quickly see how diverse this country really is – everything from its people to its terrain, there is something here for everyone! 

To spare you a twenty page description of all our stops, I’ve kindly summed up our trip down the N2 freeway into one, fact-filled sentence:  (deep breath…and go!)  Starting in Jo’burg, we first drove east to White River (Kruger Park), then down through Swaziland to the home of Bunny Chow – Durban, into the “Wild Coast,” stopping in the adorable beach town of Chintsa before heading off to Jeffrey’s Bay to see the famous wave Supertubes , again further south to marvel at Swellendam’s  pristine landscapes, followed by a few glasses of wine in Stellenbosch, and finally – to Cape Town, our final destination in South Africa.  So, after roughly two weeks of driving, here we are – at the southernmost tip of Africa!

Seeing the city crest over the mountains as we drove from Stellenbosch was truly thrilling.  Sandwiched between the impressive Table Mountain and the ocean’s blue thumb print – it looked comfortably nestled into the land despite its painfully recent history.  Unlike our impressions from being in landlocked Jo’burg – Cape Town seemed to be a city as calm and cool as the salty ocean winds that blew through it.  Over the hours spent in the car, we had read all about its history, its people, and the “Lonely Planet” hotspots that freckled the city. We were ready!  Though as excited as we were, we both wondered if it would really live up to our high expectations…

Luckily, our first full day in Cape Town happened to be World Heritage Day!  So with our “My Cape Town” stickers on our chest and the sun in the sky, we walked around the city, stopping at all the must-see museums and landmarks (for free!).  We watched groups of singers and dancers perform in outside squares, explored the arts and crafts markets, and inhaled the smoky smell of braai at every corner.  It was truly a wonderful day, and only the beginning of a great week in Cape Town!

Walking everywhere, we realized that this vibrant, buzzing city with so much to do is actually still quite manageable.  After just a few days, we had a pretty good lay of the land and no longer had to sneak a peek at our map as we went from A to B.  Throughout the week, we did all the recommended touristy things - like climbing up Table Mountain (taking the “easy” Platteklip gorge trail) or visiting Robben Island – sometimes going into areas that we had read were “off limits” or “no go zones” for tourists.  But before you start worrying too much, consider the fact that most of those warnings were written BEFORE the World Cup.

As we’ve heard from many South Africans, the World Cup gave this country a time to shine, a time to reinvent its world image.  Despite the headlines we’ve all read, criticizing the government’s preparation for the games, at the end of the day, South Africa pulled it off. It cleaned itself up with the whole world watching, instilling a new (and much needed) sense of pride within its people, all its people.  Finally, South Africans felt that the world could move beyond simple associations with the apartheid or its poverty-stricken townships – the few things people knew about it – and get to know its rich and colorful personality.

On an economic level, the World Cup generated new jobs, new businesses, and helped develop new areas – one being Green Point, where we’re currently staying, located just across the street from the new stadium.  On a human level, the World Cup was able to connect all South Africans – black, colored, or white – as they cheered, together, for a common “goal”.  Perhaps reminding them that despite the many languages, ethnicities, and tribes that constitute South Africa, by coming together, they could create a nation for which everyone would cheer. So, while they lost the tournament, they won something even more important – a positive sense of national consciousness.

Back when Will and I were deciding where we should stay in Cape Town, this newfound unity had not yet been registered.  Old blog posts and websites warned potential visitors of just about everything – don’t walk here, don’t stay there - all for good reason I’m sure, but out-dated none the less.  Green Point – a young, clean, and upcoming neighborhood, dotted with trendy bars and restaurants (where our hotel is) – was among them as a place to avoid.  So, if you’re planning a trip to South Africa any time soon – take the criticisms with a grain of salt.  Things have changed here. 

OK before I become liable for a mugging, let me just say….As a general rule, one should be modest when visiting South Africa – aka don’t walk around with a camera around your neck, bling bling designer clothes, and a huge map, basically screaming “I AM A TOURIST, PLEASE ROB ME.”  At least try and blend in as a local. But above all, the most important thing to bring with you for protection is an open mind and friendly approach.  Don’t be scared of what’s different or new.  We heard how refreshing it was to have tourists during the World Cup – completely unaware of the normal dangers or behavior - just happy to be here, walking around the city, mixing with people of different colors.  Your openness will be appreciated and most of the time, respected. 

After reading and hearing all the warnings about being in Cape Town (as other cities in S.A.), I can understand one’s reluctance to explore the ins and outs of the city.  Though once you do, you’ll be pleasantly surprised!  Not only are there places to wear your Sunday’s best and boogie down at a trendy bar, but places to learn about the country’s diverse mix of cultures and traditions – and I’m not just talking about museums.   The townships, while poor in material goods and basic infrastructure, are rich in strong minds, life lessons, and persistent hopefulness.  In a flash, you realize how lucky you are to have your own bed, a clean toilet, and food on the table…but then you also realize that the townships are no longer just a place to remember your good fortunes.   They’re a cool place to hang out.

We experienced this first hand after spending a whole day in Langa township.  For many locals, the idea is not to get rich and move out, but to stick around and develop the community.  Through tour guides, restaurants, and hotels, townships all over the country are beginning to bring in new visitors…and more business.  Shacks are slowly turning into houses and people are becoming more open to mix and mingle with other colors.   Our day in Langa with the founders of the Happy Feet dance group was one of our best yet, and deserves its own blog post (so look out for that soon!)

All in all, we were NOT disappointed! Cape Town met all our expectations and more! The lesson learned:  Figure things out for yourself before judging a person or city, they just may exceed your expectations. 

Love to everyone! Emily